Showing posts with label raglan sleeve. Show all posts
Showing posts with label raglan sleeve. Show all posts

Monday, January 14, 2013

Swoopy Vest and Cardigan

Needing a couple of quick makes for winter layers, I headed to Butterick 5528 for some assistance. I started with the vest, view C.

This is made with a lightweight poly/rayon ponte from Marcy Tilton. I had purchased it with plans of making a tunic, but after washing it discovered it was too scratchy (!) for my sensitive skin. I tested it for wool, but there was none. It was just little fibers that were sticking out of the fabric surface. Marcy offered to take it back, but I loved the color and the weight, and chose to keep it. I'm glad I did, as it suits this purpose perfectly.

The pattern is cut rather generously, in my opinion. I made the 24-26, which would normally fit me, but it was very loose under the arms. I took it apart and pared a good 4" off each side. It was a very easy make. I cheated a little on the edges, which are supposed to be narrow hemmed. Since the fabric wouldn't ravel, I simply turned under 5/8" and topstitched.

Once made, I wondered what tops in my closet would look good with it. I thought the charcoal one I made in December would, but the depth of color is too close to the purple and it just looks *blah*. I was very pleased to see how good the teal top I made a year ago looks, and how a silk scarf tied it all together.


I'm not sure if this pointed lower edge style is on trend any more, or passe. I don't see it much in RTW, and it feels a bit old to me. I may decided to even out the hem at some time in the future.

The feature I like best in the design is the line of the raglan sleeve, a little more easily seen here (especially if you click on the photo to enlarge it).


There's a nice curve to the seam which echoes the curve of the hem. This cardigan is made with a sumptuous ponte from St. John - nothing to sneeze at, for sure. We had it at Sawyer Brook, and it was just so lovely I had to have it. I seldom think of lovely and ponte as words that go together, but in this case, it's true. The weight and drape are just perfect. I'm not crazy about the color on me - rather dull - but I can give it extra pop with the tops I wear with it.

However, this cardigan reminded me of the problem I have with raglan sleeves. My shoulders are quite round and sit slightly forward. So, the shoulder seam on raglan styles is not aligned with the center of my shoulder. Here's a shot showing the seam and the "ball" of my shoulder, which is more than an inch forward.


I'm not sure, but this might contribute to the extra folds of fabric on the front of my upper arm. I could try adjusting this if I make the pattern again, but I'm not thinking I will. I like the jacket ok, but not enough to make it again and tweak this area.

And then there's the angled, pointed hemline, which just. feels. tired. I don't regret making this vest and jacket, but I have to say I don't *love* them. I'm in the mood for jackets that fit a little more closely and have a bit more construction to them. And perhaps I should stay away from raglan sleeves.

Thoughts, anyone?