Swoopy Vest and Cardigan

Needing a couple of quick makes for winter layers, I headed to Butterick 5528 for some assistance. I started with the vest, view C.

This is made with a lightweight poly/rayon ponte from Marcy Tilton. I had purchased it with plans of making a tunic, but after washing it discovered it was too scratchy (!) for my sensitive skin. I tested it for wool, but there was none. It was just little fibers that were sticking out of the fabric surface. Marcy offered to take it back, but I loved the color and the weight, and chose to keep it. I'm glad I did, as it suits this purpose perfectly.

The pattern is cut rather generously, in my opinion. I made the 24-26, which would normally fit me, but it was very loose under the arms. I took it apart and pared a good 4" off each side. It was a very easy make. I cheated a little on the edges, which are supposed to be narrow hemmed. Since the fabric wouldn't ravel, I simply turned under 5/8" and topstitched.

Once made, I wondered what tops in my closet would look good with it. I thought the charcoal one I made in December would, but the depth of color is too close to the purple and it just looks *blah*. I was very pleased to see how good the teal top I made a year ago looks, and how a silk scarf tied it all together.

I'm not sure if this pointed lower edge style is on trend any more, or passe. I don't see it much in RTW, and it feels a bit old to me. I may decided to even out the hem at some time in the future.

The feature I like best in the design is the line of the raglan sleeve, a little more easily seen here (especially if you click on the photo to enlarge it).

There's a nice curve to the seam which echoes the curve of the hem. This cardigan is made with a sumptuous ponte from St. John - nothing to sneeze at, for sure. We had it at Sawyer Brook, and it was just so lovely I had to have it. I seldom think of lovely and ponte as words that go together, but in this case, it's true. The weight and drape are just perfect. I'm not crazy about the color on me - rather dull - but I can give it extra pop with the tops I wear with it.

However, this cardigan reminded me of the problem I have with raglan sleeves. My shoulders are quite round and sit slightly forward. So, the shoulder seam on raglan styles is not aligned with the center of my shoulder. Here's a shot showing the seam and the "ball" of my shoulder, which is more than an inch forward.

I'm not sure, but this might contribute to the extra folds of fabric on the front of my upper arm. I could try adjusting this if I make the pattern again, but I'm not thinking I will. I like the jacket ok, but not enough to make it again and tweak this area.

And then there's the angled, pointed hemline, which just. feels. tired. I don't regret making this vest and jacket, but I have to say I don't *love* them. I'm in the mood for jackets that fit a little more closely and have a bit more construction to them. And perhaps I should stay away from raglan sleeves.

Thoughts, anyone?

Painted Lapis Ponte Jacket

Whew - where did the past month go? It seems time just flew by. I've been busily sewing, finishing two garments a couple of weeks ago, and in the midst of two more at present. A photo session before Mother's Day weekend was a failure, but DH took some good shots this week. Now I can blog about my new jacket.

I started this project back in March, when the unseasonable 70f+ degree temperatures were interrupted by some days that topped out at 50. Back then, I thought I might finish it in time for spring wearing, but several changes I made in the process of constructing it put the kibosh on that prospect. No problem - I now have a jacket I really like, and come September, I'll wear it a lot.

This was made from a rather stiff ponte from Marcy Tilton, in a gorgeous color she named lapis. The color is a rich blue that is accurate in the photo above, but not as much so in the photos that follow. I really like the fabric, and pondered quite a while before choosing to use this pattern, also Marcy's, Vogue 8693. I love the size of the collar, the curved seam lines, and thought I would like the pointed hemline:

Vogue 8693
(Tiny Image for Some Unknown Reason)

This looks so elegant on the model! The side drapes flatter her so well. Little did I know the fabric I had chosen was too stiff to drape nicely, and I would feel like I had wings a la The Flying Nun when wearing it. What looked like nice drapes in the photo looked like airplane wings on me! A softer ponte would have helped, but I finally concluded this style just won't flatter me at my current size.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Not one to be content with a "plain" jacket, I decided to add some paint using several of Marcy's silk screens. I thought I didn't want to add much color, so at first I used only pewter Lumiere. After looking at it for a few days, I decided it needed more depth, so I added two shades of purple.

I painted on the cut out pieces, rather than on the garment after it was constructed. Sometimes this works well, and sometimes not so much. I like to group motifs together, so I really need to make sure which seam joins which, in order to place the elements in the right place. I'm fairly happy with the results, although I always see room for improvement.

So how, you may ask, did I alter the pattern to get rid of the wings? The piece for the side front (which continues to the side back) is basically a long rectangle with shaped ends. I was able to cut away part of the rectangle - the part that draped. I laid the jacket out and figured out the shape required to fill the empty space created when I ripped out the side piece. Then I trimmed away the part of the piece I didn't need. It turned out quite well, I think. The curved seams are still there, and it's roomy enough to accomodate my lower torso.

The pattern has optional welt pockets that are inserted in the draped area. Having cut away those draped sides, and not one to own a jacket without pockets, I decided to insert them into the seam. I didn't want to add bulk, so I used lining for both sides of the pocket, rather than using ponte for the the back piece. That means the lining can show, but I kind of like the peek at contrasting fabric.

I could have used a color that matched a bit better, but I had this great Hang Loose lining left over from another project, and it is a close color match to the darker purple paint. It's static-free, which will be a great benefit when I wear the jacket in cold, dry weather. (I tend to be a magnet for static cling, for some reason.)

The jacket is partially lined, in the center front, upper back, and sleeves. I was hesitant to line a stretch fabric, but really wanted the slipperiness a lining offers, as it helps the jacket to lie smoothly against other garments. The fabric doesn't stretch without being tugged at, so I took a chance. At first I sewed the bottom edge of the front lining pieces to the hem of the jacket. One side of the jacket bagged, so I took out the stitches and hemmed the lining pieces separately from the jacket hem. (Sorry I couldn't get the colors in this shot more true to reality. The fabrics are a bit bluer and cooler looking than this.)

In the pattern instructions, Marcy discusses whether or not to interface the collar. I chose not to interface it, as I wanted it to be somewhat slouchy. Interfaced, it would stand higher than my ears - not a flattering look. It's taken a bit to get used to, but I do like the soft folds in the collar.

The final touch for the jacket was the button. I had a difficult time finding a large button that matched the fabric well, so I decided to opt for a colorful one. This coconut button was in my stash. I liked the shape, and the cutouts seemed to echo what's going on in the silk screen designs. The button had been on display at Sawyer Brook for years, and fluorescent lighting had faded it to a dull pink.  I gave it a few coats of one of the purple paints used in the silk screening. I regret not having taken a "before" image, as the "after" image is remarkably different.

One last item - a warning for anyone who owns this fabric. It crocks. That is the industry term for when the fabric dye rubs off - like some blue jeans do when new. Just a bit into working with the fabric, I noticed my fingers were blue. This continued throughout the construction process. I had washed and dried the fabric, but apparently it needs another washing or two before the dye quits transferring. If you have this fabric in your stash, you might want to wash it a few times before working with it, and definitely before wearing it, as it could rub off and show on lighter colored clothing.

I really like this jacket, and I'm looking forward to pulling it out in September or October, when the air cools down again. Just think - I'll have a brand new coat!

Ponte in the Raw Vest

For years, the only ponte I've worn is in RTW pants. The fabric is easy to care for and very wearable, and it happens to be popular in plus size pants styles. Over the past couple of years, several pieces of it have slipped into my fabric collection. Some of it was intended for pants, and some of it had no known destination. The color of this blue violet version (from Sawyer Brook a couple of years ago) spoke to me, and it happens to look great with the Back Words top and my deep peony pink top from last fall.

I didn't have a lot of yardage, so making a vest was an easy decision. I had just used Katherine Tilton's new vest pattern with a different fabric, and really loved it (I'll blog about that soon). However, I didn't want to make it twice in a row. So, I went back to Marcy's Vogue 8430 jacket pattern, which I used last fall for my raggedy edge linen vest. The linen version has become an extra layering piece for when I'm working in my studio. I'm not crazy about its extreme unconstructed-ness, especially in the linen fabric. Would I like it better in ponte? Would a double knit make it seem more finished?

Well, yes, I do like it better, probably because it's more substantial and drapes better. Plus, it's really easy to wear. No fussing with it at all.

 I left all of the edges raw on this version, and top stitched 1/2" from them. But I think I might actually prefer to turn them under. I'm not sure why, as my personality favors clothes that are a bit "different".  I added a small dart to the armhole, but these photos show that it could stand to be a bit bigger. Perhaps some day I'll enlarge the dart and stich the armhole seam allowances to the inside. That might make the vest feel more finished.

An aside: Having made this pattern twice now, I think the best fabric for it is felted wool. That's what Marcy originally designed it to be made of. Felt has far more character than ponte, and its added stiffness would improve the stand of the collar, which tends to droop a bit in the knit.

To liven up the styling a bit, I added some cool pockets from Diane Ericson's Just Pockets pattern. These are simple patch pockets with a narrow bit cut out to make a slit, which is then sewn together with a button. These beautiful buttons are Italian, from Sawyer Brook - of course.

The pockets make the vest fun and add some interest to the otherwise flat fabric. I think that's the downside of ponte - its flatness. It's a rather boring fabric - which is what makes it a "wardrobe workhorse". It doesn't have much character, so it can be used in many different types of garments. I have plans for a jacket or two out of colorful ponte in my collection, so I'm going to look into painting them, to give them more interest.

This is a fun vest and I'm sure I'll get more use out of it as I add more tops to my wardrobe. I love the blue violet color!

Swingy Cardi

The second garment in my mini-wardrobe for late autumn and winter, this cardigan is going to get a lot of use.  The fabric is terrific, and I can't say enough good about it.  It's a rayon/spandex ponte from Sawyer Brook, and it's a breeze to sew.  The hand is very drapey, not stiff at all, and it's very soft on my skin.  It's very comfortable to wear.  I've worn it a couple of times and like it so much I bought some of the purple, too.  The navy is sold out, but flame (a bright orange-red) and purple are still available here. 

I like a vee neck, collarless cardigan to layer over a variety of tops.  McCall's 6168 appealed to me for it's curved hem.  Rather than coming to a point at the side seams, the hemline is rounded.  I love how
nicely it falls:

The pattern was easy to fit, although these photos tell me I could narrow the shoulder width a bit, if/when I make it again.  I added the usual 2 to 3 inches to the length. 

I'm glad to be enthused about this jacket now that I'm wearing it, because I wasn't so thrilled as I was sewing it.  Despite the swingy cut and curved hem, the styling felt very plain to me.  I'm really craving excitement in my clothing these days, and would rather not make boring clothing.  To add some extra oomph, I topstitched it with a twin needle, rather than a single.  I liked the raised ridge created by the needles, as it gives some definition to the garment's lines.

The button style is a long-time favorite of mine at work, and it was great to finally let it add the perfect finishing touch to a garment in my wardrobe.  I like the simple yet distinctive styling of the button.  Notice how the curved lines arcing across the center of the button echo the curved lines in the garment.  Call me a button geek, but I like buttons to be in synch with the garment.  I actually had these buttons in mind when I chose the pattern for the jacket.  Ok, yes - I am a button geek!

What was really interesting to learn is how this fabric changes color in certain lighting.  Under the Ott light and at the window at work, the buttons looked like a perfect color match.  When I sat down at home to sew them on, I was dismayed to see the buttons looked very blue against the fabric.  They really didn't look good at all.  Even my husband agreed with me, and he's not super picky about matching buttons!  I discovered it was the incandescent light I was working under.  It changed the hue of the fabric, but not the buttons.  Knowing the combination looks great in daylight and under fluorescents, I decided to go ahead with the plan.

Yes, the styling of this jacket is a bit plain, and the fabric is plain, and the color is basic, and the buttons are quiet - but I love how I can change its look with a different top and accessories.  Here I am at work wearing a teal shell and a funky chunky necklace:

And for all of you jewelry and bead fanatics, here are images of the necklace.  I purchased it from a button maker at a fabric expo last spring.  It's a bit shiny and busy for my taste, but I've grown to like it.  It's perfect for upping the ante of a simple outfit.

This swingy jacket will look great with the bright pink tee I made a couple of months ago, and a coordinating scarf currently in the works.  I love wearing it with the teal Alice + Olive top and comfy jeans - a great combination.  You can bet you'll see more of it here as I add more tops to my wardrobe!