Monday, January 14, 2013

Swoopy Vest and Cardigan

Needing a couple of quick makes for winter layers, I headed to Butterick 5528 for some assistance. I started with the vest, view C.

This is made with a lightweight poly/rayon ponte from Marcy Tilton. I had purchased it with plans of making a tunic, but after washing it discovered it was too scratchy (!) for my sensitive skin. I tested it for wool, but there was none. It was just little fibers that were sticking out of the fabric surface. Marcy offered to take it back, but I loved the color and the weight, and chose to keep it. I'm glad I did, as it suits this purpose perfectly.

The pattern is cut rather generously, in my opinion. I made the 24-26, which would normally fit me, but it was very loose under the arms. I took it apart and pared a good 4" off each side. It was a very easy make. I cheated a little on the edges, which are supposed to be narrow hemmed. Since the fabric wouldn't ravel, I simply turned under 5/8" and topstitched.

Once made, I wondered what tops in my closet would look good with it. I thought the charcoal one I made in December would, but the depth of color is too close to the purple and it just looks *blah*. I was very pleased to see how good the teal top I made a year ago looks, and how a silk scarf tied it all together.


I'm not sure if this pointed lower edge style is on trend any more, or passe. I don't see it much in RTW, and it feels a bit old to me. I may decided to even out the hem at some time in the future.

The feature I like best in the design is the line of the raglan sleeve, a little more easily seen here (especially if you click on the photo to enlarge it).


There's a nice curve to the seam which echoes the curve of the hem. This cardigan is made with a sumptuous ponte from St. John - nothing to sneeze at, for sure. We had it at Sawyer Brook, and it was just so lovely I had to have it. I seldom think of lovely and ponte as words that go together, but in this case, it's true. The weight and drape are just perfect. I'm not crazy about the color on me - rather dull - but I can give it extra pop with the tops I wear with it.

However, this cardigan reminded me of the problem I have with raglan sleeves. My shoulders are quite round and sit slightly forward. So, the shoulder seam on raglan styles is not aligned with the center of my shoulder. Here's a shot showing the seam and the "ball" of my shoulder, which is more than an inch forward.


I'm not sure, but this might contribute to the extra folds of fabric on the front of my upper arm. I could try adjusting this if I make the pattern again, but I'm not thinking I will. I like the jacket ok, but not enough to make it again and tweak this area.

And then there's the angled, pointed hemline, which just. feels. tired. I don't regret making this vest and jacket, but I have to say I don't *love* them. I'm in the mood for jackets that fit a little more closely and have a bit more construction to them. And perhaps I should stay away from raglan sleeves.

Thoughts, anyone?


13 comments:

  1. Dixie,
    I really like your sweaters, but I get what you mean. I have a similar cardi in teal that gets worn primarily around the house. Makes me feel a little nicer than when I wear a sweatshirt. As far as the raglan sleeve goes - I just posted about a raglan top I made yesterday, and remembered after I made it that it's not my favorite style on me. I should hand a sign in my studio that says no. more. raglan. tops!

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    1. I've considered donating this cardigan to someone who wants to remake it in a smaller size. Such a waste of great fabric!

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  2. How do I always seems to miss these patterns? Oh right, I am almost never cold and layering isn't for me. I love the vest on you, but I agree, the colour of the cardigan just isn't you. It just kind of threw me, you always make/wear beautiful vibrant tones which suit you so perfectly. It will provide a good "wear with everything" basic for you.

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    1. Yeah, I debated a lot about whether or not to buy the gray ponte. Then I bought the wild print I'm wearing with it, and since they went together...
      It's definitely not a great color for my complexion. Wait 'til you see me in black. It's not a good look either.
      I'm seldom cold enough to wear a jacket indoors, which is why I've been making vests.

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  3. I do like the cut of those raglans! Even though I, too, am avoiding them as I move towards more fitted looks. I have gotten so used to starting right off the bat with tweaks for my shoulders (forward, narrow, sloping), that I almost never even cut a muslin without assuming I'll need those adjustments. I'm still figuring out how to read and deal with those folds near the armscye (front and back) though!

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    1. I probably should have made a muslin of the top, but I sort of approached the vest as a muslin. There was no telling how the sleeves were going to look, though. Some coworkers and I analyzed the shoulder/sleeve seam and concluded tweaking it would make for wonkiness in the sleeve farther down. I think I'll just stay away from raglans!

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    2. I have those "well-rounded" shoulders too! For me excess fabric at the front armscye is because both the sleeve cap and the front above the bust are too wide there. I don't tend to sew many raglans but I like them best combined with some kind of yoke or a little bit of gathering like Sewaholic's Minoru jacket. Anything that doesn't emphasize the line of my wonky shoulders!

      Sorry you don't like pointy hems anymore, Dixie! I say fashion trends can go hang and I'll wear what I like regardless. Judging by how many I've sewn recently, I likes me The Pointies! And right now the Many Layers too. It's cold in my house and colder and damper outside.

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  4. The purple & teal look fabulous together & suit you so well. I love it!

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    1. Thanks, Alison. I do love to wear those colors. It's quite a bit of color to wear them together, but the multi-hued scarf really makes the outfit work.

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  5. I enjoy the seam lines of Butterick 5498 where there is raglan sleeve and an hourglass design built into the side seams.

    But the choice of gray as a matches-everything-color is always a good idea!

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  7. Thanks for your habu comment. I knitted the silk stainless and merino fulled scarf, too. It's so fun to wear.

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