Friday, January 11, 2013
I went on a top-sewing binge in December, and completed four long sleeved ones. Photography sessions with me wearing each of them haven't materialized, so I snapped some photos on a hanger so I could show them here.
I used an out-of-print Simplicity pattern, 3634. It's one of those wardrobe patterns, and the top has either a high scoop neck or a scooped cowl collar. I used the size 28, and added bust darts from the side seams. I'm really pleased with the fit, especially through the bust, shoulders and upper arms - those areas that can be challenging to get just right. One drawback is the sleeves are set in. I've inserted them in the flat instead, but I used double ease stitching on the cap to get a good fit. Having to do that is a pain, but it does create a better fitting sleeve.
The top shown above is made from a lofty rayon jersey from Marcy Tilton. It is quite light in weight, and almost a sweater knit. The fabric is marled, using black and blue yarns. The knit is on a slight diagonal. It couldn't be straightened without skewing the vertical grain of the fabric. I've chosen to accept the fact that the fabric was simply knit this way, and embraced its off-kilter look.
I used the plain neckline, and I love how it looks with the Trillian wrap I finished last year. I've just begun working on a black vest which I plan to wear with this top.
Needing a basic color tee, I purchased some of Marcy's Harvard Gray rayon/lycra jersey. This fabric is a dream to sew and wear! I drafted a higher, almost crew neckline for this one.
It's not a particularly exciting top, but a great basic for layering.
The third top is made from a beefy cotton/lycra from Marcy. You know I couldn't make 4 tops without one of them being purple!
On this style, I used my drafted crew neckline and added the twisted turtleneck from Marcy's Vogue 8582, which appears to be out of print. I used this collar on a top a year ago, and really like it. It's a tall tube, and one edge is machine stitched to the neck edge. Then the other edge is hand sewn at the seam line, but the key is to move the inner edge sideways about 4 inches. This creates the soft folds you see in this photo. I find it very comfortable on my neck, and it adds a bit of interest where there would be little.
I used this same turtleneck on my fourth top, this wild printed rayon/lycra jersey from Sawyer Brook.
This print is very large, which is not a problem with my size. But I was concerned about the warm tones in it (orange and nearly olive). The black, gray and fuchsia are the standout colors, though, and I'm glad I jumped out of my comfort zone with this fabric. It feels flattering to me.
I wear this with a gray ponte cardigan recently made (blog post to come soon!), and black pants. I get lots of compliments on the combination. It will also look great with the black crepe vest that's on my design table now.
So there you have it - three solids and a print to round out my top-making for 2012. There is one more to show, made from a different pattern, but I'm waiting for the black vest to complete the look. All told, I sewed 15 tops in 2012, bulking my wardrobe up so that I no longer wear any RTW tops out in public. Since I can't find RTW that fits well, I'm thrilled with the TNT top patterns I've tweaked in the past year. Yay!