Friday, November 21, 2014

A Tilton Trio: Butterick 5891

Back in June I made Katherine Tilton's Butterick 5891. I liked the shape of the top so much I decided to challenge myself to making two additional, different garments from the pattern, as a design challenge. Here is the first version I made, following the pattern quite closely:


I made only my normal adjustments to the pattern for this version. I added some length to the body and the sleeves, did a forward shoulder adjustment and a rounded upper back adjustment. Just the usual things I do. It was unusual for me to not need to add width to the side seams. This style is very loose fitting, and there is plenty of room for my extra padding.

I absolutely love the collar on this top. I cut it on the bias and it sewed up beautifully.

One design change I made was to add a center seam to the sleeves, so I could insert a decorative flange and button:


Aren't the buttons fantastic? They are from Sawyer Brook, naturally. I was just thrilled when I saw how well they matched. The fabric is cross dyed linen, in a solid and a coordinating textural plaid. It's also from Sawyer Brook, a few years ago.


There's a funny story about this fabric. After deciding to make it up into this top I noticed on Martha's blog, Now Sewing, I had a kindred spirit. She had made the sleeveless top in this pattern out of the same fabric! I had the pleasure of meeting Martha a couple of years ago when she came to shop at Sawyer Brook. Our style aesthetic is quite similar, and sometimes I wonder if we were separated at birth!


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Onward to version two, a collarless jacket:


Studying the pattern, I saw I could omit the collar - wonderful as it is - and use identical center front pieces for a v-neck look. The fabrics I chose are a black linen/rayon blend and a cotton printed with a dramatic dragon design, from Marcy Tilton. On this make, I rounded the center edge. It doesn't show up much in the print, but a close look at the buttons gives an idea of where the edge is.


It's a detail that might be wasted in this fabric, but if/when I make this again in a solid, it will show up nicely. I added the half-moon window pockets for a touch of whimsy. 



Topstitching throughout is done with dark red thread that matches the print.


Another great button match was found at Sawyer Brook. I love being able to sew with the buttons I work with every day!


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And finally, version three, a longer length vest. 


This was one of those makes that changes as you work on it. I started out wanting a go-with-everything denim vest and ended up with one that has a lot of purple in it. None of the purple tops I have look good with it (seriously!), so I made a solid navy crew neck t-shirt. Unfortunately, it was at home, 1000 miles away, when these photos were taken. I had to run out to Macy's and make do with what I could find, which was the v-neck, 3/4 sleeve top you see here. I also forgot my navy pants. Let's just say this isn't styled the way I will wear it!

Anyway, back to the evolving make. As I cut out the denim fabric, I kept wondering if certain remnants in my collection would look good with it. I gathered some of them together, and came up with a combination I loved. They are a linen jacquard, a blue silk dupioni, a rayon batik, and a solid purple rayon twill. I decided to try piecing the center front panels with the fabrics, and once I got into it, I just loved the look. So much for something to wear with everything. But that's what love does, messes up the plan for an end result that's even better than imagined!


As the photo above shows, I used the already cut out front panels as templates for the piecing. I interfaced each of the fabric remnants to give them stability, then I cut out shapes and sewed them together. I worked on both sides at the same time, to keep them balanced. Once the vest was sewn up, I decided to add some hand stitching to bring more detail to the panels.




Wanting a little treat on the back, I inserted a long pieced flange in the center back seam, and topped it off with a button. Just a parting wink!


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But that's not the end of this pattern. Today I started sewing another version of the top with the collar. It's looking good, and you'll be seeing it here soon!

Thanks to my wonderful baby sister who shot all of the modeled photos in this post. Lisa, you're the best!

19 comments:

  1. These are wonderful and have such creative details. Great job!

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  2. Oh, Dixie. I love each piece better than the one before until I go back to the top. Then I like the first one best. They are all so different. And so you.

    Several things resonate with me. I too try to make things that will go with lots, but that does not always quench the creative thirst, does it? And I love where your creativity led you.

    That is such a versatile pattern. I had no idea. I had been thinking about making a vest with the jacket view. This post has convinced me to do that!

    Thanks for the creative jump-start.

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  3. Hi Martha! Thank you for your comments. Do make a vest from the jacket view. Just remember it is very loose fitting. You might want to take it in on the side seams. Can't wait to see your version!

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  4. Oh, Dixie, I love what you've done with this pattern! I love all of the creative details and each version feels very different from the others.

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  5. Lovelovelove...I will dream about these beautiful creations tonight! I sometimes think that buying more and more patterns stifles creativity.

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  6. Dixie, I love all of your creative touches and details on each of these tops! All beautiful, and your sister did a great job taking pictures.

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  7. They are all lovely and they all look so good on you. ♥

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  8. Oh, Dixie, I really love them all. Such a wonderful job on all the tops. I do especially like the first as purple is my absolute favorite color. The Tilton patterns are so wonderful. I just finished two from her new skirt pattern. Hope to blog about them today.

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  9. I love this post Dixie! Seeing the different treatments of the same pattern. All the details make such a difference, great job on all.
    Love this pattern, too. It's so versatile. Thanks for an inspiring post!

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  10. Oh wow! I love this pattern's versatility! Your three garments are each so different - and perfect. Fabulous details! The plain-jane jacket I made pales in comparison. I'm now inspired to make more.

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  11. What fabulous tops. Love the details like the pocket treatments and the patchwork front - wonderful

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  12. This is an amazing set of looks, Dixie. It's hard to believe they're all from the same pattern. What a creative spirit you are, plus you sew beautifully!

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  13. They are all such beautiful tops. I love the collar on the first one, it looks so luxurious, and adore your additional details on the others,particularly those half moon pockets with contrasting backing, just lovely.

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  14. Very nice Dixie - I have admired your multiple interpretations of patterns previously but think these are the best so far!!!

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  15. Three beautiful jackets! I think my fave is the dragon one but they're all lovely.

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  16. Lovely, I absolutely love that fun flange on the back in the last photo! Very artistic and very boutique looking. I'm in Windham NH and am lucky enough to get to Sawyerbrook on occasion. One of the few garment fabric stores in the area, unfortunately!

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    1. Thanks for your comments, Fran. I'm the "Button Specialist" at Sawyer Brook Fabrics. A great place to work!

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  17. Dixie, I love each piece you've created with this pattern! Definitely will purchase this pattern. Thank you for the wonderful inspiration!

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