Back in February I made two different garments using purple striped fabrics. The first is this knit top:
This fabric is a gorgeous purple and black striped double knit from Marcy Tilton. It has a beefy hand and was a dream to sew. I used Katherine Tilton's V8710 , which I've made a couple of times before. I raised the neckline and added a twisted, loose turtleneck to this one, making it perfect for winter wear.
Some non-plus size sewists have complained about the fullness of this top, but I really like it. There is a lot of extra fabric, however, so if that's not your ideal, I recommend slimming it down.
I enjoyed wearing this in the cold months, and will get a lot of use from it next fall and winter. It's really comfortable and cozy!
The second garment is this shirt, made from a tone-on-tone striped cotton shirting, also from Marcy.
The pattern is a hybrid based on an out of print Sandra Betzina shirt pattern, with details from Diane Ericson's Nuevo Shirt pattern (sorry, I can't get a link to the pattern itself), and her out of print Just Pockets pattern. I love, love the pocket, and the interesting cuffs:
The layers of the pocket are assembled and basted on top of the base piece, then the entire thing is inset into the shirt front (rather than laid on the shirt and topstitched). It's finicky, but I really like the look.
I was hoping to really like the shirt, but I have to say I don't, just because I don't like how woven fabrics drape on my body. There always seems to be too much extra fabric in a shirt, and I feel sloppy wearing one. Maybe it's because I haven't found a good fit in the chest and shoulder area. Or maybe that's just how a shirt fits. I don't know. What do you think?
By the way, those are rounded square tagua nut (a.k.a. corozo) buttons, from Sawyer Brook. They are a perfect color match and I love their angularity on this garment, as the design lines are angular too.
There are several more items in line for me to blog about, including a jacket and two bags, so stay tuned!
Great tops - purple is definitely your colour. LOVE that pocket - so unusual. Great job.
ReplyDeleteThanks, BeaJay. Purple does love me!
DeleteSo nice to hear from you again, I missed you. I love love the pocket too. It's too bad about the shirt, but I like you in knits better too. One day the perfect pattern will present itself.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Elle. I'll keep looking for the perfect shirt pattern!
DeleteHi Dixie! Nice to hear from you! I love both fabrics, you look so good in purple. My thoughts on the woven - I can't tell if the blouse has darts, but if it does not, it could benefit from an FBA and darts. Also maybe some fisheye darts in the front vertically to take out some of the excess fabric under the bust. Overall it looks a bit big on you. It's hard to tell in the pics, but is it too big in the shoulders? Being of the busty persuasion myself, the only kind of blouse I like on me is a shoulder princess. Other styles just don't fit well. That pocket is awesome!
ReplyDeleteHi Andrea! Thanks for your feedback. The shirt does have bust darts. I think it would benefit from narrowing the shoulders a bit. And it's a little too big under the arms. I'd do the fisheye darts except I need the space for my large midriff, waist and belly. I think I'll just stay away from shirts for now!
DeleteI agree with Andrea, a fba and princess seams might work better for you with woven fabrics. I prefer knits also because of my full bust and belly however I discovered stretch wovens can make a difference when you want a more finished, crisp look. BTW--love that pocket!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Robin!
DeleteIt's always nice to see a post from you :) Love the knit top on you, and I'm TOTALLY in love with that pocket!
ReplyDeleteI'm no help at all with the fitting issues....I have a hard enough time fitting me, and I'm just grateful that I don't need to figure out an FBA - ever! lol
Thanks Jilly. It's always nice to see your face in my comments section!
DeleteI'm with Robin, love the pocket, worth the time and precision sewing, love the color but the woven is making me crazy. Attach some shoulder pads as they will help pull up the fabric from the underarm area and give you more balance. Fisheye darts in the back only will help with the front fit and hang. Next time though move the sleeves in about 1.5 inches so they sit on your real shoulder. The bicep area looks large enough to fit the new opening and it could use a little tapering. This shirt could double as a jacket over a turtleneck too so more chances to display your great sewing!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your suggestions. They're good ones. I think I'm so overly concerned with making the fit too small through the shoulders, that I overcompensate and leave it too loose. I have no plans to make any shirts anytime soon, as I really prefer knits. Easier to care for, easier to sew, easier to wear.
DeleteI love that pocket!!! So nice to have you back, you ate missed:)
ReplyDeleteHi Rhonda! Thanks for the welcome back. I'll try to stick around for a while!
ReplyDeleteLove the pockets and stripe fabric of the shirt. I agree about shirts. I just can't seem to like wearing woven ones anymore. Just too use to knits too.
ReplyDeleteI'm not a huge fan of stripes but yours are lovely and quite subtle! The pocket is a great detail but like a couple of other commenters, I agree that the shoulders and especially the sleeves seem somewhat big on you. I used to have that problem too until I realized that I have very narrow sloped shoulders that really need a much smaller size than the rest of me! It's much easier to increase for the bust and tummy than to narrow the shoulder and neck area. You are so right that knits are simpler to fit and more comfortable to wear!
ReplyDeleteThat pocket is so wonderful. I love both tops and hope you give the woven pattern another chance. I like it and really think it is crisp and pretty.
ReplyDeleteI love the pocket treatment -- so very cool !! I think the problem with the shirt is the fit, for me if it doesn't fit in the shoulders, arms, chest, then it feels sloppy. Why is it when the get to plus sizing the expand the pattern everywhere -- I don't need longer shoulders, and some areas just don't need to expand evenly everywhere. I've been trying to pick my pattern size based on the high bust, then alter the sleeves, waist, etc if I need the extra room. I means lots of measuring the pattern, and comparing as I go. -- I also find I like a lighter weave shirt fabric (I'm a cotton lawn hoarder) the lighter weave seems to look better on me.
ReplyDeleteGreat T and great shirt. Wonderful color and style. And that pocket is TDF.
ReplyDeleteThe body of the shirt doesn't look bad, but the sleeves seem wrong somehow. Are they set in ones?
ReplyDelete