Friday, April 13, 2012

Pretty Plum Pink Ponte Pullover!

12 tops in 12 months in 2012 - that's what I committed to on Stitcher's Guild. I wear tops nearly every day, so I certainly can use 12 new ones. I'm actually aiming for making 18 tops, as my wardrobe can use several for each season. My work environment at Sawyer Brook is very casual, as is my social life, so I don't have need for skirts, dresses, or blouses. Occasionally I'll wear a shirt, but most days it's a top with jeans or pants.

There are times when I long for the suits and dresses I wore in the 90's - totally different career - but for the most part, I'm content in dressing casually. You all know I have easy access to wonderful fabrics perfect for a business career. But that's not my life right now, so I'm sewing for the life I'm living.

Making top after top after top gets a bit dull, so I do need to switch it up a bit now and then. You'll be seeing some different types of garments here soon. I'm just finishing up an outerwear jacket, and I have a linen/rayon shirt to make for spring. For now, though, it's tops!

This is top #3, sewn from a light-to-midweight ponte from Marcy Tilton.
I've had this fabric in my stash for well over a year, and I love the color. One day in my studio, while pondering what to sew next, this fabric told me it wanted to be made into that Marcy Tilton top with the off-center front seam. Message heard, I jumped right in and finished it in a weekend.

I started with my current TNT top pattern, Vogue1261, tracing fresh copies of the back and front. From there, tracing the neckline, shaped front seam and shaped hemline from Marcy's V8671 onto them was easy. These photos don't show it well, but the front seam and hemline are slightly curved. These curves are flattering, and give the top more interest and flow. FYI, I added several inches to the length, as I prefer a longer top.

All of the edges are left raw. To help stabilize them and prevent them from stretching out, Marcy has you cut strips of ponte and lay them under the hems and neckline. Then you topstitch, slightly stretching the strips, and trim the excess away. I think I stretched the strips a bit too much, as the hems appear a bit puckered. However, I think it's a neat technique, and I'm sure I'll use it again.

For the topstitching, I chose a variegated topstitching thread from Sulky. It was thick enough that I couldn't use a double needle; the thread kept breaking. So, I switched to a topstitching needle, and topstitched each edge twice.
The pink tones in the thread match the fabric perfectly, while the navy and gray add an extra dimension. The top has small side slits. I chose to lengthen them a bit.
(Please pardon the wrinkles. The top had been living in a bag for a couple of days before I took this shot, and I didn't have time to press it.)

I tried to insert bust darts from both the side seams and the armscyes, but I couldn't get them to look good. I think the weight of the fabric prevented them from lying nicely. I don't like the horizontal wrinkles under my arms, but they don't look as bad as the darts did!

This fabric has a nice feel on the skin, but I think it was just a tad too heavy for this top. It would have made a nice unconstructed cardigan or jacket. The drape of the knit would have been perfect for that. Marcy's pattern calls for a lightweight double knit, but I don't think this fabric is quite light enough. I am happy with the top, though, as it's very comfortable to wear.

What would I have made this spring without all of these Tilton patters and fabrics?! I've been having lots of fun sewing their styles. I have two more Tilton inspired garments almost ready to show you, then I think I'll try a Lynn Mizono. But you can be sure I'll be back to Tilton. I just love what those wonder women create! 




15 comments:

  1. Dixie, your pink top is beautiful! I love what you did with the thread. Very inspiring!

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  2. Dixie, your pink top is beautiful! I love what you did with the thread. Very inspiring!

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  3. What a great top. Love that color. I need to make that pattern up. It's been in the stash a while.

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  4. So pretty! I love working with variegated thread - it looks like a perfect choice for this top.

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  5. Very nice to, Dixie! I agree, sometimes you have to live with a bit of wrinkle at the bustline. Not ideal, but sometimes it's better than the alternatives. This is a very pretty color on you. That contrasting thread is a nice touch.

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  6. I too love your new top, Dixie. How exciting to work for Sawyer Brook! My son has lived just over the border in NH for years and I only recently discovered how close your warehouse/shop is. It is chocked full of beautiful things. You are sooooo lucky to be around all that cool stuff.

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    1. Hi Martha - Have you visited Sawyer Brook? I would love to meet you some time. Yes, I am very fortunate to work there. Even better, my studio is in the same building. When I run out of thread, or want to find a fabric to match another in my stash, I simply walk down the hall!

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  7. Dixie, I love the style, color and details of this lovely top.The unfinished hems looks quite professional in this style. I need to try that.

    Karendee

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  8. Oh my gosh, what a beautiful top! i love the style. I have your TNT pattern also and I have to give it a whirl! Thank you for sharing this wonderful top!

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  9. Very nice! I wonder what would happen if you added strips of contrasting fabric on a raw edge to stabilize it like Marcy said, but let the strips stick out about 1/4 inch beyond the raw edge for trim? Maybe it would look tacky?

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    1. Judi, I think your idea could work! It would look nice if the topstitching was done in a solid color, and the strips matched the topstitching. I'll have to keep that one on file!

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  10. Nice top, like you I adore The Tilton Sisters patterns, even though I haven't sewn a lot of them, but I have them! I am so jealous that you work at Sawyer Brook, although if I worked there I would have to have a second job to support the first job. I would never have thought of using variegated thread for top stitching, what an awesome idea, so many possibilities.

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    1. Good to meet another Tilton fan! Working at Sawyer Brook is lots of fun. I don't make a fortune but the job blesses me in many other ways. Welcome to my blog!

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  11. Thanks for all of your comments here. The topstitching thread really "makes" this top, imo. It adds more interest and somehow gives more depth. Sometimes a little touch like that can make all the difference!

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